8 July 2007 10:36 pm
This weekend was my first without homesickness in several weeks. As we rolled into
After a grueling 9 hour bus ride (which began at 11 pm), we arrived on the rainy streets of
Disoriented from lack of sleep (and Phil from an excess of drinking the night previous), we wandered in the direction we thought our hostel was in. 20 minutes later we reached the border of the main city, and realized we’d gone the wrong way.
A hour and a half of hobbling half awake down the streets, looking up every so often to see giant monuments and gorgeous statues, we came to the church we’d call home for the next two days. Our hostel was formerly a small church, which had been modified several years past to accommodate travelers. It was very college student friendly, and quite easy to find your way back to in the night, as we only had to look for the steeple.
Still, the accommodations were lovely, and still retained the stained glass windows. Basically, it looked as if the seats had been removed in the church hall proper and been replaced by bunk beds, and cubicles had sprung up around every 3 or so. In the basement was a nice bar area, with pool table and dart board, internet terminals, big screen tv and lounge area, and kitchen.
Phil immediately sought out his bed to try and sleep off his hangover, and I went down to the bar for breakfast. Absolutely delicious sausages, toast, and tea gone, I surfed the internet a bit and started planning the next couple of days in
After about an hour I managed to wake Phil and get him back on the streets. It was only sprinkling at this time, which was actually rather nice to walk in. We stopped in a little pub for brunch and had really classy service. We were very impressed. It was about then that we first realized one of the major changes from
It’s not exactly difficult to find
It wasn’t nearly as bad as everyone says it is, but I fully understood why this castle was impossible to lay siege upon. The climb was substantial, and I can’t imagine trying to drag the tools of war up it, much less in armor and while under archer attack.
We toured the castle and got a feel for the prison inside. We saw the beautiful effects of
After a long walk and after a resounding round of cannon fire, we set off down the Royal mile. The rain really picked up again, but we went through about 80 shops looking for the same thing. Apparently my clan tartan is very difficult to find, and a kilt would need to be custom made, for the nominal fee of 200 GBP. I opted for a similar one and my clan’s effects, which make for a great combo. I still spent far too much on it all, but it’s really fun to have.
We walked the streets for a few more hours until it was about time for supper. We found a neat little pub on a street entirely full of them, all with rather raunchy names. We passed up The Bad Ass, Filthy McNasty’s, and Dirty Dick’s as we wandered.
When we arrived, we decided to make the most of our
As we walked home, we ended up stopping in a lively little hole in the wall, Scruffy Murphys. This was the crème of the crop for the Scottish pub experience, the kind of place the locals came and enjoyed. There was live music, traditionally Scottish, and dancing in the middle, a man in another corner telling lively tales, and just a lot of people having a really good time. We camped there for awhile and worked very hard to resist a guy we referred to as “Our friend,” who was a very intoxicated and enthusiastic man that continuously tried to pull us onto the dance floor. He was a real riot, and actually really nice to talk to.
All being said, done, and danced (for it was the only way to traverse the path from the corner we occupied to the door), we settled back into our hostel and finished in the basement with a nightcap. Neither of us were terribly badly off, and we both slept very soundly after the long day. I didn’t even wake up at six as usual and fall back asleep!
The next morning dawned bright and beautiful, and I’ll say that neither of us were bothered by that. I was feeling the nasty cold that’s currently wreaking havoc on my nose and throat, but after I walked around I felt fine. We had to leave in an extreme rush to make our bus tour, and on a very tight schedule. Half way to the bus station, Phil feels his pocket and realizes that he’s forgotten his wallet!
He took off sprinting down the road and told me to try and hold the bus. He tried to be a real hero about it and said that if he didn’t make it, I was to leave him and go on the tour. I giggle a little as he sprinted off. He was really trying hard to let me have a good time, and I really appreciate his efforts. They were very instrumental in the brilliant days I spent in
I made it to the bus just on time, and started talking frantically with our bus driver, who, by the way, was the one of the most incredible people I’ve yet met. He too was suffering from a cold, but he was very cool about waiting for Phil, who grabbed a taxi on his way back. Bill (our guide) made a big show of pulling away from Phil as he ran up, and then opening the door as he ran along the side. He made Phil work for the tour, much to everyone’s delight. Even Phil enjoyed it afterward.
Our guide seemed to know everything about
We started our winding bus tour through the heart of
We passed
We stopped for coffee and met Hamish, the hairy bill, which we called the emo cow. His long bangs hung over his eyes in just the right way; he was absolutely priceless. There was also an incredible collection of Lotus vehicles at our rest stop, which are a brilliant and rather rare vehicle to begin with.
We set off into the highlands next, to meet the Bens (mountains) that would awe me into speechlessness. It was like being back at Philmont, but totally green. Giant early hills loomed above us, reaching into the low clouds in a dramatic way, as if showing off their incredible reach for the bus. Bill put on some traditional Scottish music to fill the gaps between his commentaries, and the atmosphere had my skin crawling up my spine like a great burrowing rabbit. We heard stories of the clans that lived in each area, the heroes that lived and died there, the people that preceded us. People like my forefathers. The three sisters of Glencoe was yet another stop and photo op, and a chance to catch our breath. The scene overwhelmed me, the thoughts of my ancestors and the other clans of
The hills were literally alive, and I felt like I was being spoken to. Everything swayed with a gentle wind, visibly glowed with life. Entire fields of grass bounced back and forth in a beautiful dance. Great quilts of blooming heather started appearing too, patches of pinks and purples quilted into the green landscape. As we stretched into the northern lochs and glens, we climbed higher and higher into the highlands, closer and closer to the clouds. As I looked out the window and past the girl sitting beside it, I started to notice her as well as the landscape beyond, and I noticed also that she was noticing me. What can I say, she was cute.
We arrived at Loch Ness shortly after lunchtime and got onto a boat cruise, a lovely hour out monster hunting. Phil tried to lure Nessy out of hiding with a Mars bar, but no luck or sightings. A really enthusiastic Scotsman in a kilt kept a lively commentary going, telling stories of the monster and his experiences on the loch from below deck, next to a sonar screen that scanned the lake bottom as we traveled.
It was here I started talking to Ambur, the girl by the window. This started a chain of conversation that would take us all the way back to
We had one last stop, to a small waterfall in a small park area. I ran up the wooded trail to the top of the hill, photographed the glen below, and ran all the way back down. I was on top of the world, and I felt every ounce of it beneath me.
The rest of the journey is fairly simple and must be summed up quickly, as I’m fading into sleep. This is a LONG account of a simple weekend, but a stunning one that obviously impacted me a lot.
Basically, we spent the night taking Bill’s advice and researching Scottish culture in the best place possible, the pubs. We talked with some people, tried some whiskeys, and left feeling rather good. I picked up a comical Scottish accent that I can’t seem to access any more, but the Hostel people remarked that it was quite good when we had returned. Our Australian friend there (he works as basically a bouncer) challenged us to a game of pool and darts each, winner gets a drink from the loser. I lost pool and Phil darts, but I think evenly sober we would’ve had a chance. We still had fun, and he didn’t make us shell for his drinks. Nice guy, really.
All the while, Phil was eying three girls across the bar, who were in fact very attractive. They left a short time before midnight, and so we decided to settle in and hit the hay. We walked into our room, and low and behold, the girls were sitting in there, one on each bed. I looked at Phil who whispered something like “Thank you Jesus.”
The next morning I woke up and one of the girls was talking in her sleep. I woke Phil and we got ready to make our hasty exit. Once again, we had a bus to catch. A sickening 11 hours later, we made it back to
There was one ray of hope on the bus ride home, which was really the silver lining of the whole experience. As we sat in the still roads queued for